Ingredient Glossary - Skincare
Skincare, Haircare & Bodycare Ingredients:
Ingredient (INCI & common name) |
Source |
Key Function in Product |
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder Certified organic |
Hand harvested & filleted, then solar dehydrated and milled into a powder | Very soothing & calming on the skin Produces skin hydration |
Ascophyllum nodosum extract Atlantic kelp extract |
Extracted from brown algae by lixiviation in water |
Clinically proven skin whitening ingredient effectively decreasing pigmentation (Ref 15)
|
Aqua |
Natural drinking quality rainwater |
Rainwater is collected and passed through a series of filters to remove any impurities. It is stringently monitored for purity After filtration, the water is drinking quality |
Apitoxin Bee venom (certified organic) |
New Zealand bees from local organic pastures |
Skin energiser Skin firming & plumping Refines & rejuvenates skin texture |
Astrocaryum murumuru seed butter |
Pressed from the murumuru fruit seeds |
Rich moisturising organic butter Deeply nourishes, conditions & soothes the skin |
Backhousia citriodora Lemon myrtle oil |
Derived from the leaves and fresh twigs of the lemon myrtle shrub |
Cleansing, invigorating and uplifting Anti-microbial actions on the skin |
Bee Venom Certified organic |
Sourced locally in New Zealand from organic pastures |
Skin energiser Skin firming & plumping Refines & rejuvenates skin texture Clinically proven anti-ageing results |
Benzoic acid |
Derived from tree gum benzoin |
Emollient Emulsifier Naturally derived preservative |
Benzyl benzoate |
Plant derived pure essential oil component |
Forms part of the product’s fragrance – ‘Parfum’ |
Binchō Tan Charcoal | Sustainably sourced & derived from the Ubame Oak Tree - Japan | Purifying – absorbing impurities from the skin |
Bisabolol |
An extract from chamomile |
Anti-inflammatory agent Soothing, calming & healing properties Excellent on sensitive skins |
Boswellia carterii oil Frankincense oil |
An essential oil taken from resin of the frankincense tree |
Assists to help prevent lines and wrinkles Its astringent properties may also help balance oily skin conditions |
Butyrospermum parkii butter Shea butter |
Derived from the fruit of the karite tree |
Emollient which is deeply moisturising, softening and nourishing Leaves a protecting film on the skin |
Calendula officinalis flower extract Certified organic |
Extracted from calendula flowers |
Excellent for soothing and calming the skin Anti-inflammatory properties Healing & soothing |
Calendula officinalis flower & Helianthus annuus (sunflower)seed oil Certified organic |
Infused calendula flowers in organic sunflower seed oil | Soothing, calming & nourishing on the skin Rich in nutrients (Vit E & C) and antioxidants Promotes skin healing |
Caprylic / capric triglyceride |
A natural coconut fat |
A fatty mixture of glycerides derived from coconut Used as an emollient and emulsifier with quick skin penetration properties Enhances smooth product application (Naturally found in human blood plasma) |
Caryocar brasiliense fruit oil Pequi fruit oil |
Expressed from the fruit of the Pequi tree |
Used as a skin conditioning agent Contains a high level of skin nourishing natural oils Rich in palmitic & oleic acid, vitamin A & carotene Protecting, repairing & skin smoothing Strong anti-oxidant Anti-ageing properties |
Cera alba Beeswax |
Harvested from bee hives |
Used as a thickener, emulsifier and stiffening agent in balms and creams |
Cetearyl olivate |
Derived from olive oil |
Improves skin hydration & moisturising effect Excellent skin absorption Similar to natural skin sebum |
Cetearyl alcohol |
Derived from coconut & palm kernel oil |
An emollient and viscosity regulator Note: this is NOT a grain distilled alcohol |
Cetyl Palmitate |
A lipid wax derived from the esters of olive oil & palm fatty acids |
Offers excellent long term moisturisation and skin hydration |
Citral |
Plant derived pure essential oil component |
Forms part of the product’s fragrance – ‘Parfum’ |
Citric acid |
Deived from citrus fruit |
A natural surfactant & solubiliser Has great skin feel |
Citrinellol |
Plant derived pure essential oil component |
Forms part of the product’s fragrance – ‘Parfum’ |
Citrus grandis fruit extract Grapefruit extract |
Extracted from the fruit of the grapefruit |
Has strong antibacterial and antioxidant properties |
Citrus reticulate peel oil Tangerine peel oil |
Expressed from the peel of the Tangerine | One of the safest essential oils Soothing, calming & nourishing on the skin |
Coco-glucoside |
Derived from coconut oil glucose (fruit sugar) |
Very gentle cleanser (surfactant) Cleanses by helping water to mix with oil and dirt so they can be rinsed off Natural occurring fatty acid |
Cocos nucifera Coconut Oil (Certified organic virgin) |
Derived by cold pressing the oil from organic coconuts |
High quality organic virgin cold pressed oil offers exceptional purity and a rich source of vitamins and minerals Proven to penetrate skin cell membranes to help make connective tissues strong & flexible Its Lauric Acid component provides anti-microbial benefits to help clear skin rashes |
Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax |
Derived from the leaves of the carnauba palm |
A waxy emollient that offers protection and nourishment |
Daucus carota oil Carrot oil |
Extracted from the carrot root |
Good for skin tone Emollient that is rejuvenating and nourishing Source of Beta-carotene and Vitamin A |
Decyl glucoside
|
Derived from palm and coconut oils |
Used for its foaming and cleansing action Has antibacterial properties |
Eugenol |
Plant derived pure essential oil component |
Forms part of the product’s fragrance – ‘Parfum’ |
Euphorbia cerifera wax Candelilla wax |
Extracted from the leaves and stems of a small desert growing shrub |
Natural wax beads used to gently stimulate skin exfoliation without causing any tissue damage |
Euphrasia officinalis Eye Bright Herb |
Extracted from the eye bright herb |
Anti-inflammatory properties Used as a soothing, antimicrobial and skin conditioner |
Fucus vesiqulosus Kelp extract |
Extracted from New Zealand brown kelp |
Provides essential nutrients, especially minerals, for healthy hair |
Galactoarabinan Larch tree gum |
Extracted from the gum of the larch tree |
Excellent moisture control and humectancy properties Ref 05 Improves skin appearance of superficial fine lines Ref 05 Environmentally sustainable larch trees |
Geraniol |
Plant derived pure essential oil component |
Forms part of the product’s fragrance – ‘Parfum’ |
Glycerin Vegetable Glycerin Certified organic |
Derived from natural plant sources (soy or maize) |
Excellent humectant & emollient properties Helps to hydrate, soften and soothe the skin Assists the outer epidermis in retaining moisture |
Glyceryl caprylate |
Derived 100% from vegetable fatty acids |
A mild solubilising surfactant Has great skin feel |
Glyceryl oleate |
Naturally occurring fatty acid derived from coconut oil |
Used as an emollient and emulsifying agent |
Hamamelis virginiana extract Witch hazel |
Derived from the bark and leaves of the witch-hazel shrub |
Used as a natural astringent, which actually helps to soothe and heal the skin Tannins help remove excess oil from the skin |
Harakeke Flax Extract |
Natural clear polysaccharide gel derived directly from the base of the outer ‘Grandfather’ leaves of the Harakeke Flax plant |
Renowned since ancient Maori times for its medicinal & skin calming benefits Anti-inflammatory and soothing properties Hydrating and cooling on the skin |
Helianthus annuus seed oil Sunflower seed oil |
Hard pressed from the sunflower seeds |
Used to macerate calendula flowers into (‘Kekebaby range)
|
Hypericum perforatum oil St John’s Wort oil |
Obtained from the flowers of the St John’s Wort plant |
An emollient with anti-inflammatory properties Acts as a vaso-constrictor, assisting to reduce the appearance of dilated capillaries Soothes pain and promotes skin healing |
Isoamyl laurate |
Derived from lauric acid (vegetable oils) and the fermentation of isoamyl alcohol |
Excellent natural skin emollient Skin softening and smoothing properties in a short period of time Nourishing Gives product good spread ability and beautiful skin feel |
Jojoba esters
|
Derived from the esterfication (natural process) of jojoba oil |
A wax ester that leaves a protecting film on the skin – improving skin feel An emollient that helps with the smooth consistency of the cream An ester is a molecule of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol combined Reduces skin dryness, roughness & flakiness |
Kaolin Halloysite clay |
A pure white clay from Matauri Bay, New Zealand |
Assists with removal of dead skin cell by acting as a poultice, drawing impurities out of the skin |
Kelp Fucus vesiqulosus (kelp) extract
|
Naturally occurring in the South pacific oceans around New Zealand Manually harvested and extracted with water and steam |
Nourishing food for the skin and hair Contains mild antiseptic properties of iodine and tannin to cleanse and purify Helps to revitalise the skin and hair |
Lavendula angustifolia Oil Lavender essential oil |
Steam distilled from lavender flowers | Soothing, calming and balancing on the skin |
Leptospermum scoparium oil Manuka essential oil |
Distilled from Manuka tree leaves and flowers |
Used for its skin toning and anti-microbial properties A concentrated essential oil with strong anti-septic properties |
Limnanthes alba seed oil Meadowfoam oil
|
Extracted from meadowfoam flowers |
A very stable moisturising and rejuvenating oil Used as an emollient Contains unique fatty aids of benefit to the skin |
Limonene |
Plant derived pure essential oil component |
Forms part of the product’s fragrance – ‘Parfum’ |
Linalool |
Plant derived pure essential oil component |
Forms part of the product’s fragrance – ‘Parfum’ |
Macadamia ternifolia seed oil Macadamia seed oil |
Extracted from macadamia nuts |
Has a fine texture that absorbs readily into the skin to nourish and protect |
Mel Manuka honey (Organic Manuka Honey used in the Bee Venom Mask) |
Derived from sustainable local bee-keeping / honey producers |
Maintains moisture level in the skin as a natural humectant International recognition for its antimicrobial properties referred to as UMF (Unique Manuka Factor) |
Melaleuca alternifolia oil Tea tree oil |
From the leaves and flowers of the tea tree plant |
Strong antibacterial and antiseptic properties Steam distilled from environmentally sustainable sources |
Oenothera biennis oil Evening primrose oil Certified organic |
Extracted from the flowers of the evening primrose
|
Helps feed the skin and soothe skin irritations This is primarily a result of the high amounts of gamma linoleic acid, and essential fatty acids |
Olea europaea leaf extract Olive leaf extract
|
Extracted from the leaves of the olive tree |
Powerful free radical scavenger and anti-oxidant An emollient that increases skin hydration Prevents the growth of bacteria |
Olea europea fruit oil Olive oil |
Extracted from the ripe fruit of the olive tree |
Its composition is close to the natural lipids of the outer surface of the human skin Contains nutrient beneficial glycerides of essential fatty acids Used as an emollient and skin conditioning agent |
Orbignya oleifera seed oil Babassu seed oil |
A fixed oil extracted from the nuts of the babassu tree |
Excellent skin moisturising properties Used as a an emollient Made up of skin nutrient glycerides of fatty acids lauric, myristic and oleic |
Parfum Natural (essential oil) fragrance |
Derived from natural plant essential oils |
A blend of isolates (components) 100% natural See specific product labelling for potential allergen components |
Pentaclethra macroloba (pracaxi fruit) seed oil Certified organic |
Harvested from the seeds of the Pracaxi (Pentaclethra Macroloba) tree |
Stimulates hyaluronic acid production – moisture holding ability (Ref 16) Increases density of collagen & gives skin elasticity & integrity (Ref 16) Skin lightening by reducing melanin by 29% (Ref 16)
|
Pentylene glycol (vegetable) |
Food production by-product from dried pulp residue after the juice is removed from corncob & sugarcane | Emollient, skin humectant, solubiliser & antimicrobial protector Offers long lasting moisturising benefits |
Persea gratissima oil Avocado oil
|
Extracted from the avocado fruit
|
A nutritious oil containing vitamins A, D & E & essential fatty acids (linoleic acid) that make it very nourishing, restorative and moisturising Deeply penetrating and skin softening |
Phormium tenax leaf juice New Zealand Flax gel |
The gel naturally forms at the base of the flax plant leaf |
A refreshing gel that has a high quantity of natural skin nutrients & polysaccarides Soothing and hydrating on the skin Healing properties Native to New Zealand Sustainable source |
Pomaderris kumerahou flower / leaf extract Kumerahou extract |
Derived from the flowers and leaves of the Kumerahou plant |
A high saponin content results in natural lathering properties Wild crafted from local Kerikeri plants Environmentally sustainable |
Potassium sorbate |
The salt of sorbic acid, naturally found in some fruits (berries), but can be produced creating a ‘nature identical’ product |
A common food grade preservative An effective anti-fungal agent assisting in the products preservation |
Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil Almond oil |
Obtained from the ripe seeds of the sweet almond |
A very nutritious oil used as a skin conditioning agent An excellent emollient for the skin Great for dry / mature skin |
Ribose (D-Ribose) | A natural sugar derived from corn |
A natural anti-ageing agent restoring ATP reserves in the cells Stimulates fibroblast metabolism & enhances elasticity |
Ricinus communis oil Castor oil Certified organic |
Extracted from the castor oil plant |
Used as a carrier agent in our balms Environmentally sustainable |
Rosa canina fruit oil Rosehip oil Certified organic |
Critically extracted from organic rose hips |
Helps the skin to heal and regenerate the skin Assists in preventing the formation of keloid scar tissue Its high fatty acids, vitamins A and C, make it essential in the prevention of wrinkles and signs of premature ageing |
Rosa damascene flower oil Rose otto oil |
Extracted from the rose flower petals |
Emollient and hydrating properties Stimulating and antiseptic Helps to fight lines and wrinkles associated with ageing |
Salicylic acid Beta hydroxyl acid (BHA) |
Obtained from the inner bark of willow trees |
Effective bactericidal and antiseptic |
Schisandra Chinensis fruit extract | Extracted from the Schisandra Chinensis berry – known as a ‘super-berry’ due to its amazing properties |
Rich in antioxidants |
Sclerotium gum |
Grown on a sugar medium |
A natural polysaccharide gel base used for its gelling, thickening and hydrating qualities |
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil Jojoba seed oil (Certified organic in 'Kekebaby range) |
Extracted from the seeds of the jojoba |
This waxy oil by nature is similar to our own sebum An emollient that helps to lubricate and protect the skin Nourishing & softening & prevents dryness |
Sodium cocoyl glutamate |
Derived from coconut or palm oil and corn |
A mild solubilising surfactant Has great skin feel |
Sodium lauroyl glutamate |
Derived from coconut oil |
Mild surfactant, antistatic & hair conditioning agent Naturally occurring amino acids |
Sodium anisate |
Deived from the herb basil, corn and palm |
Gentle preservative |
Sodium hyaluronate Hyaluronic acid |
Extracted from vegetable sources – soybean and corn | Hyaluronic acid is a crucial component of skin tissue reconstruction Helps to boost collagen production Helps to retain moisture in the skin while aiding healing and nutrient absorption |
Sodium Levulinate |
Deived from the herb basil, corn and palm |
Gentle preservative |
Sodium phytate |
Derived from corn |
Effectively boosts antimicrobial activity to stabilise the product |
Sorbitan palmitate |
A lipid wax derived from the esters of olive oil & palm fatty acids |
Offers excellent long term moisturisation and skin hydration |
Sorbitan olivate |
A lipid wax derived from the esters of olive oil |
Offers excellent long term moisturisation and skin hydration Rich in essential fatty acids |
Squalane (Vegetable squalene) |
Obtained from vegetable oil sources, mainly olive oil |
Excellent skin penetration capabilities. Anti-oxidant, anti-bacterial & helps prevent the signs of ageing caused by UV damage Promotes healthy cell growth |
Sucrose Cocoate From cocos/sugar beet |
A blend of coconut oil & sucrose esters from sugar beet |
A mild surfactant and skin / hair conditioner |
Stearic acid |
Derived naturally from palm |
Used as a product emulsifier |
Stearyl Stearate |
Derived from palm |
Natural wax beads to gently stimulate skin exfoliation without causing any tissue damage |
Theobroma cacao butter Cocoa butter Certified organic |
Derived from the cocoa bean |
A deeply nourishing emollient Contains high levels of skin beneficial fatty acids |
Theobroma grandiflorum (cupuacu) seed butter |
Pressed from the seeds of the cupuacu tree |
Nutrient rich in sterols Increases moisturisation and improves skin barrier function Natural UVA & UVB protection High levels of fatty acids & phytosterols to restore elasticity & softness Anti-inflammatory properties |
Tocopherol Vitamin E |
Derived from soy plants |
A potent antioxidant preserving the product and helping to prevent free radical damage on the skin |
Totarol Totara extract Certified organic
|
Extracted from recycled totara hard wood by supercritical extraction process
|
A very strong antioxidant (3 times stronger than vitamin E), to neutralise free radicals linked to skin ageing Only discarded ‘old’ wood is used (e.g. old wharf or fence posts) |
Triethyl citrate |
Exter of citric acid |
Fragrance Emulsifying agent Antioxidant Emollient |
Triticum vulgare germ oil Wheatgerm oil |
Obtain from the germ (seed) of wheat |
An excellent emollient, rich in nutrients including vitamin E, helping to prevent free radical damage on the skin Excellent skin absorbing qualities Gluten free |
Vitis vinifera seed oil Grape seed oil |
Obtained from pressing grape seeds |
High in skin beneficial fatty acid glycerides Used as a skin conditioning agent and emollient |
Xanthan gum |
A microbial polysaccharide derived from the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris |
Used for its binding, gelling and thickening properties Used extensively for food thickening |
Zinc oxide CI 77947 |
A quarry mined natural pigmented mineral |
Has soothing and protectant properties Acts as a broad spectrum UV protectant |
Zingiber officinale extract Ginger root extract |
Extracted from the ginger root |
Skin healing & soothing properties Anti-irritant & anti-inflammatory |
References
05: Galactoarabinan
- Westman M. Galactoarabinan: An Exfoliant for Human Skin, Cosmetics and Toiletries 114 8, 63-72 (1999).
- Trommer H. and Neubert R. The examination of polysaccharides as potential antioxidative compounds for topical administration using a lipid model system, International Journal of Pharmaceutics 298 153-163 (2005).
- Results from numerous study results conducted by the producers, providing graphs and technical data, concluding Galactoarabinan, a naturally-occurring polysaccharide, provides many desirable skin care effects (TEWL reduction, skin exfoliation and reduction of the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles). (On file)
09: Wound Healing Properties of Aloe Vera
- Results of a number of clinical trials suggest that Aloe vera is positively indicated in the treatment of skin disorders. Aloe vera significantly reduced time to reepithelization compared to use of the standard dressing alone. Fulton J.E. The stimulation of postdermabrasion wound healing with stabilized Aloe vera gel-polyethylene oxide dressing. J Dermatol Surg Oncol. 1990;16:460–67. PubMed: J Dermatol Surg Oncol. 1990 May;16(5):460-7.
- In a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial of Aloe vera or placebo cream in 60 patients with chronic psoriasis, the cure rate in the Aloe vera group was 83% (with no relapses at 12 months of follow-up) compared to only 7% in the placebo group. Syed T.A, Ahmad S.A, Holt A.H, Ahmad S.A, Ahmad S.H, Afzal M. Management of psoriasis with Aloe vera extract in a hydrophilic cream: A placebo-controlled, double-blind study. Trop Med Int Health. 1996;1:505–09. PubMed: Trop Med Int Health. 1996 Aug;1(4):505-9.
10: Burn Healing Properties of Aloe Vera
- In a study of twenty-seven patients with partial thickness burn wound, they were treated with aloe vera gel compared with vaseline gauze. It revealed the aloe vera gel treated lesion healed faster than the vaseline gauze area. The average time of healing in the aloe gel area was 11.89 days and 18.19 days for the vaseline gauze treated wound. Statistical analysis by using t-test and the value of P < 0.002 was statistically significant. PubMed: J Med Assoc Thai. 1995 Aug;78(8):403-9. Effect of aloe vera gel to healing of burn wound a clinical and histologic study. PMID:7561562. Visuthikosol , Chowchuen B, Sukwanarat Y, Sriurairatana S, Boonpucknavig V.
- A review of 4 experimental studies found that Aloe vera could reduce the healing time of burns by around 9 days compared to conventional medication. Four studies with a total of 371 patients were included in this review. Based on a meta-analysis using duration of wound healing as an outcome measure, the summary weighted mean difference in healing time of the aloe vera group was 8.79 days shorter than those in the control group (P=0.006). Evidence supports that aloe vera is as effective in burn wound healing for first to second degree burns. PubMed: Burns. 2007 Sep;33(6):713-8. Epub 2007 May 17. The efficacy of aloe vera used for burn wound healing: a systematic review. PMID: 17499928 DOI: 10.1016/j.burns.2006.10.384. Maenthaisong, Chaiyakunapruk N, Niruntraporn S, Kongkaew C.